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Making old new

With green fashion budding in the country, Berlin-based designer Philippe Werhahn describes the trend of recycling fashion as uber cool

Asmita Chattopadhyay
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Posted On Wednesday, January 25, 2012 at 07:12:19 AM

Although claimed as not-vogue-but-cause by many, ‘eco’ seems to be the ‘in’ word for the fashion dwellers this season. Taking in consideration the unconventional brainchilds of some of the designers, the green fashion has created a remarkable ripple among the chic populace, of the like of the ‘go green’ phenomenon.

Up is the word

Imagine a pair of corduroy pants as a classy one-piece for you, or a jacket wrapped around your legs as a skirt. The idea is to use old men’s garments, and re-do its design to come up with hot and sleek dresses for women.

Up-cycle, as it is termed, is described as ‘hi fashion from prêt’, by Philippe Werhahn, a designer of much renown from Germany who is in the city as a part of the ongoing Germany and India 2011-2012: Infinite Opportunities project, Max Mueller Bhavan Pune in collaboration with the School of fashion technology (SOFT).

“There is a multifunctional aspect to the creation,” shares the designer. The idea pertains to deconstructing the concept of gendered apparels and creating a plethora of options as garments. Philippe, a student from Milan, started an up-cycling label named TingDing in 2006 as a part of an assignment which later bagged much acclaim.

“I strongly feel that ‘waste of waste is a waste of resources’. The used garments either turn into rags or are sent to the Third world nations, which results in stuffing up their market with our clothes. They do not get a chance to grow. These clothes can be used again to re-create into something new.”


Green all the way

The making of garments goes environmental-friendly with the following of fair trade. Green fashion goes hand in hand with the introduction of green fabric. “Cotton basically is considered the green fabric,” shares Philippe.

Although considered a pesticide and insecticide intensive crop of a high order, cotton seeds can be cultivated in the nature-friendly way. If taken adequate precautions, the designer reveals, “True that cotton uses a lot of water and minerals from the nature, but it sure gives back the same amount as well.

Besides, recycling of cloth enhances the utility.”  Unlike TingDing, his second label named ‘kollateralschaden’ uses green fabric for the making of apparels. Its slogan as Philippe describes, “One garment-fits all!” follows no measurement rules and, “Can be worn by both men and women, as they like it. It breaks all norms of gender apparels,” describes the brain behind it all.


Business talk

Kollateralschaden, literally meaning collateral damage, uses organic fabrics. “The company that I deal with for my designs is Lebenskleidung, owned by my friend Benjamin Itter and two other,” says the designer.  It deals with the cultivation of eco friendly cotton and also looks into other aspects such as farmer’s rights and securities, health issues et al.
 
“You see, it is them who are at the highest risk zone in such endeavours since they belong to the lowest position of the chain. To ensure their livelihood along with the production of the right kind of cotton seeds, most importantly, the health implications of the cultivation practices is what fair trade vouches for,” he adds.

Lebenskleidung has a long relation with south Indian territories, from where it trades a considerable amount of organic fabrics for the designers from Germany.


Cross country

The idea of organic is not as infant in Germany as it is in India. “It is an on-going process in my country. They are much more aware and matured of the issue and don’t just follow them for fashion,” Philippe says in comparison to India, “However, I can feel consciousness dawning here as well with people getting active for the cause of environment.”

Speaking of Anita Ahuja’s initiative of recycling, he describes her work as “commendable”. From Delhi, she runs the label Conserve that designs bags out of recycled materials.

Cause or not, the idea of stylising the organic way is definitely trendy and is catching up on the publicity meter. Philippe Werhahn emphasises it is not only to be cool but also the need of the hour as well.







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