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Choli se sikhe

Fashion designer Jhelum Rele tells us how an ingenious blouse can redefine a saree

Anjali Shetty

Posted On Wednesday, May 23, 2012 at 08:30:32 AM


Trends come and go. And so do styles. But one attire that stays and continues to rule the wardrobe of an Indian woman — is the saree. And accentuating this beautiful creation is the blouse or choli. Over the years, the latter has seen a tremendous change with respect to design, cut and work.

Fashion designer Jhelum Rele, who is extremely passionate about Indian cholis and blouses gives us a sneak peek into the exquisite latest collection and also shares a few dos and don’ts about this piece of beauty.
Accentuating the oufit

A blouse is the only part of an attire that is well-fitted. “It is extremely important to have a right sized blouse which fits well and falls well on your shoulders. Today, the blouse garners more attention than your saree.
 
Hence, the right choice of fabric, work and design of the same is a must,” says Jhelum, who loves experimenting with the designs and patterns of a blouse. “It depends on how you assemble the piece.
 
I could use a lot of swarovski and spend a bomb on the material but the piece could still look tacky. Making a blouse and using the right cut, embroidery and fabric is like art.”

Cut to cut

A few pieces on display at the exhibition. Jhelum says zardozi, laces, ribbons, swarovski and crochet are‘in’ this season.

Jhelum believes the cut of a blouse is more important than the fabric. For example, a princess cut makes one look slimmer and fitter. “Today, most of our sarees are see through.

So, it is like mandatory to have a cut that does make one feel awkward or uncomfortable.” Indian women normally have huge arms so deep arm cuts is a complete no-no. “If you are slightly in the heavier side avoid deep backs or low neck lines.”


Traditional vs contemporary

Though used as a traditional piece in our country, the blouse initially made waves for its pairing with skirts and trousers. “How you wear a blouse is completely your mindset. It depends on whether you have it in you to carry it off. Personally, a long blouse with a pencil skirt looks great and stylish.

Flaired trousers like palazzos when paired with a waist high-long sleeve flowy blouse makes you look slimmer and chic,” she adds.

Coming to the traditional styles, Jhelum believes tied-on backs have made a comeback this season. “Also, katori and half katori styled blouses which Rekha flaunted are a hit this year too.”


Colour palette

It is important to pick a design and colour that one is comfortable in. Jhelum suggests, “For a summer look avoid broad borders and keep it simple.
 
Trends come and go so don’t insist on a colour of the season, instead opt for a colour that suits you. It is not about doing different things, it is about doing things differently.”


Ooh La La

This season, Jhelum will be showcasing 120 exquisite blouses in an exhibition meant just for blouses. “After my client visit to Kolkata, I realised that ladies notice the blouse of the other than the sari.

They keenly observe the cut and fabric which becomes the talk of the town. So, we thought of an exhibition which will give them the opportunity to view blouses in different fabrics and cuts,” says Jhelum.

(Jhelum with her mother Aarti present Ooh La La, a collection of exquisite blouses till May 27th at Vismaya, Aundh.)







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